Coffee and Thread's Sirocco Top (and Dress)

I am so excited to finally share my Sirocco Top. Olga, the mastermind behind Coffee and Thread, posted her top a few months ago and I was smitten. It looked so elegant paired with a slim skirt. I am so glad she decided to grade it and offer it as a pattern for the rest of us. I eagerly signed up to test and was fortunate to be picked in the pretest round.



The Sirocco Top and Dress is designed for light wovens with excellent drape. It features bell sleeves and a high low top option as well as a dress. The deep facings are my favorite and I would love to use a contrast fabric for the facings next time. (I did not have anything of a similar weight in The Stash). The sizes range from 2-20 and the pattern can be printed with just the size(s) you need. Notches are provided to line up the facings and other seams. The pieces fit together beautifully and I love that it includes instructions for understitching and using a knit interfacing.



I sewed the size 10 based on my bust measurement. I did not make any alterations or changes (besides piecing together the facings and cutting them against the grain) although next time I may add a little bit of length to the front because I chase after a three year old. (I am 5'4" on a good day but I think my torso borders on the longer side). I used a black rayon challis from imagine gnats (not sponsored). I also used a ton of wonder tape and my walking foot to try to keep the fabric from slipping and feel I was moderately successful. I probably should've cut my pieces flat instead of on the fold and I should have my scissors sharpened. If I had used a less fiddly fabric it would've been a pretty quick sew. I have no regrets about using rayon challis though!



I was pleasantly surprised to find this top has become a staple in my wardrobe. It looks equally good paired with jeans (my lianas) or with skirts (this one is from Gymboree). I also paired it with my shiny black Hey June Sloan Leggings but they were in the wash when Ansley was available to take pictures for me. We were freezing.



The Sirocco Top and Dress is available in the Coffee and Thread shop for $9.50 (regularly $12) until Saturday, December 23rd. There is also an additional discount code in the Coffee and Thread Facebook Group.



Thanks for stopping by!

Itch to Stitch's Paro Cardi and Liana Stretch Jeans

Hi! Welcome to my stop on the #ITSLoveTour- a blog tour to show our love for Kennis, the stellar designer behind Itch to Stitch, who had the misfortune of returning home to find her home burglarized and her sewing machines, cameras, and computers (and other items) stolen. Thank you to the numerous sponsors and bloggers and companies for their support. And scroll through to enter the awesome giveaways. ;)



This tour gave me the motivation to pick up the Paro Cardigan pdf pattern. This yummy french terry was generously provided by Ti of Simply by Ti. I love the shaping of the paro (which is achieved through twelve pleats!) and that it's designed to fall below the hips so I can wear it with leggings!



The Paro Cardigan comes in sizes 00-20. It has the option to print in layers. The pleats and notches are clearly marked and the pieces fit together beautifully. The drafting and instructions are excellent. I love that the instructions also give several options for finishing and instructions to include a contrast fabric for the waistband and band. There is also an optional button closure that I chose not to do because my machine doesn't love buttonholes.



I sewed a size 10, according to my bust and waist (upper bust 35.5, bust 39, waist 31.8, hips 39). I did not make any size adjustments. I am happy with the fit! I think I want to make my next one with some star wars fabric at the waist!



This pink french terry is easy to sew with and feels nice to wear! I had sewn up a lane raglan a few weeks ago so I knew I'd love it. It doesn't fray at the raw edges like some french terry I've sewn with. Since it's cotton it presses nicely. I did notice the highest heat on my iron made the color change slightly purple when I was pressing but it went away as soon as I removed the iron and I can't tell where the heat marks were. I used the second hottest heat setting for the remainder of the pressing, which also worked well. I washed and dried this cardi after sewing to remove my fabric markings and this is how it looks straight out of the dryer. With most knits I line dry but I dried this on low and am happy with how it looks.



For 2017 I made one new year's resolution- to sew a pair of jeans (or pants- leggings and pull on pants excluded). Did you make a new year's resolution? I used to make a bunch and then I would get overwhelmed and not work on any of them after mid February. Then for a few years I didn't make any. This year I picked one that I knew would be challenging but I also knew I'd feel so empowered/excited when I achieved it. This tour and the sewalong that Melissa and Diane hosted on facebook and Kennis' sewalong on her blog were the motivation/support I needed. Thanks to these ladies and the supportive sewing community for their help/tips/support/inspiration! It was also really helpful to have sewn the Sandbridge Skirt this summer so I'd had some experience figuring out tension for topstitching on my machine and installing my first zipped fly.



The Liana Stretch Jeans come in sizes 00-20. They have a midrise in the back, which I totally appreciate, and traditional five pocket styling (with optional back pocket flaps). There are also three leg styles (skinny, straight, and boot cut) which is really cool to be able to use one pattern for many different looks! This pair is the straight leg version.



I used high stretch denim that I found at my local Joann. Here's the online listing that popped up in my search though obviously the color is way different for some reason. It's a cotton/poly/spandex blend. The reverse is actually black instead of the typical denim and I felt like it shredded black threads when prewashing. Fortunately my serger is still threaded with black thread from Ansley's ranger costume. The only real frustration I had with the fabric is it's only 46 inches wide (instead of 54) so I needed an extra yard to cut one of the legs.



I followed along closely with the Itch to Stitch sew along- especially the fitting days. I picked to sew a size 6 even though my sewing double, Ti, sewed a 4 because my fabric had a little less than 20% stretch. When I did the first fitting I was pleasantly surprised with how well they fit. I am glad I did the full legs instead of shorts because I needed some space for my calves. I ended up scooping out the seat 5/8 inch for my low butt, took a 1/2 inch dart out of the back top yoke (blending to nothing at the bottom of the yoke), and tapered the back legs out 1/2 inch at the knees for my calves. I also shortened the pattern pieces by 1.25 inches based on an estimate from my fitting. After sewing I decided I wanted a little more length so I gave myself an additional 1/4 inch on my pattern pieces for next time. I did it right away so I wouldn't forget.



I still have some wrinkles, which I expect because we need to be able to move in our pants! I'm not sure if it's worth looking at a sway back adjustment in the yoke because most of my sway back is above the normal waistband anyway and when I make sure the waistband is where it belongs the wrinkles disappear. I do have some phantom wrinkles at my hips but these are way less significant than rtw jeans on me.



I used two denim threads for topstitching. They are labeled as jeans thread and are variegated. I wound some thread on a bobbin because I didn't have two spools. And note to myself because I forgot- change the tension to midway between + and neutral for topstitching or the bobbin threads will be a tangly twisty nightmare.



I love the support from the pocket stays! I upcycled the old curtains from our townhouse kitchen, Sound of Music style, for the pockets.



This fly installation method happens to be the same as my sandbridge skirts and I was elated the zippers went in beautifully and successfully the first time!!! I used the leftover jeans buttons from my sandbridge skirts. I used a metal zipper and for some reason it was significantly easier to shorten than on my first sandbridge skirt. I'm definitely not complaining. I didn't use rivets this time because I had a headache when I was finishing up.



I chose to substitute 1/4 inch elastic in the waistband for the twill tape because Ti said hers were a little too stiff in the waistband. I wanted something for support but something that would also relax a little through the day because my belly tends to fluctuate.

I sewed the belt loops on even though I don't wear belts. I'm debating removing the side ones because they are a bit bunchy when I sit. I think I might not have sewed them in as flat as I should also.

(top is the original union st tee)

Thanks to my eight year old for the pics. She was a good sport when I asked her to reshoot on Monday since the pics from Sunday were so dark after choir practice.



Thanks for stopping by! Please make sure to enter the giveaways and link up your Itch to Stitch lovelies created in October or November 2017.

First, you may enter our giveaway to win one of three prize packs:

Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

$25GC to Simply By Ti

$50 Raspberry Creek Gift Card

$50 Bella Sunshine gift card

Prize Pack #2 includes:

$50 Knit Pop GC

$25 Designer Stitch GC

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

3 patterns of choice from Coffee And Thread

Prize Pack #3 Includes:

$15 Thread & Grain store credit

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

3 patterns from Halla Patterns

A Rafflecopter Giveaway

Your second way to win is to share with us your recent Itch to Stitch creations (made between October and November 2017). Add your creations to our Link Up Party before Nov. 20th for a chance to win one of two prize packs.

LinkUp Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

A $40 value PFRE Sly Fox Fabrics.

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

$50 Love Notions GC

LinkUp Prize Pack #2 includes:

$25 Stylish Fabric GC & sewing box kit

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

5 patterns from Rad Patterns

Pattern of choice from DG Patterns

 

 





 

Giveaway and Linkup prize winners will be announced on or about November 21st.

Your ITS Love bloggers are

Monday: Sew Sophie Lynn, Merritts Makes, Sewing with Sarah, Sewing with D

Tuesday: Shalini's Blog, Auschicksews, Rebel and Malice, Sewing Vortex

Wednesday: Replicate Then Deviate, mahlicadesigns, Sewing with D, The Petite Sewist, kreamino

Thursday: Sewing Curves, Creative Counselor, Sew Mariefleur, Fairies, Bubbles & Co, Sewing by Ti

Friday: Harper+Lu, MeMade, On Wednesdays We Sew, Heather Handmade, Bellevi, and visit by mooglii on IG

Ranger's Apprentice

Happy Halloween!





I have a few requirements for Halloween costume sewing- they have to be worn more than once a year (preferably several times a year) or be something that doesn't exist in stores or be significantly cheaper than buying it. Fortunately my daughters have gotten a lot of use/wear from their Halloween costumes. I like to use sturdier fabrics so that they are washable and durable.





This summer Ansley read close to thirty books, including the Ranger's Apprentice series by John Flanagan. We both highly recommend it! Have you read it? The rangers have specific outfits- the most notable being the cloak that is excellent for blending into the forest (or desert or wintry forest) and protection from the elements, a green tunic, and brown pants.





The cloak fabric is from Joann. I used the free red riding hood pattern (child size) by fleece fun. If I had had more fabric I would've lengthened it. I even changed my serger thread from white to black just for this project. Haha. Anyway, I didn't follow the instructions and didn't use the recommended fabric but I still love how the hood came out. I love that the cape has shaping through the shoulders and instructions for lining the hood. I did some extra topstitching in grey to keep the slippery fabrics where I wanted them. It's a knit fabric and costume so I didn't hem it. We used a sew on toggle since we couldn't find an oak leaf button.





(We also couldn't find a bronze or silver oak leaf. Even though hers is gold, she isn't really retired).



The top is the Hey June Camden Raglan. I totally forgot it came with instructions/pattern piece for a kangaroo pocket. Ansley is super happy with the pocket! I sewed a size 10. Her measurements are between an 8 and 10. She decided to have cuffs for the sleeves and the band for the bottom. I adore the fit and this will get a lot of wear! Here's my affiliate link. (no additional cost to you, I get a small commission and you get an awesome pattern). The green fabric is from the star dust and moon beam group on facebook.



The leggings are the Love Notion Lil Leggins pattern with the yoga waistband. They fit together nicely. I also sewed a 10 and she is closer in height to an 8 but the 8 and 10 have the same waistband piece. The fabric is from Joann. After prewashing and cutting I realized this fabric is somewhat see through (!) especially when stretched so I'm really glad these leggings are kind of loose. They are also shiny and glittery and reflective, which helps.



Lisbon decided to be a rainbow penguin. Her dress is her rainbow birthday dress (made by rae geranium bodice and candy castle peppermint swirl dress skirt) plus her penguin costume from two years ago (from tjmaxx- definitely cheaper/easier to buy this one haha).









We went to the pumpkin patch and floral shop for trick or treating and stopped by the pumpkin display at the local park.







Hope you have a happy Halloween! Thanks for stopping by!

Sew Straight and Gather's Ladies Avenue Top and Dress Pattern

Hi! I had the opportunity to test Sew Straight and Gather's Ladies Avenue dress this last week! I have sewn the Ladies Legend dress and I always get compliments on it. I also picked up the girls Avenue collection but haven't sewn any yet because it was far too hot to think about pants and cardis. Of course the weather has since turned but I'm still sewing for Disneyworld.  As luck would have it I managed to make this test work for my plans. 



The Ladies Avenue is designed to flatter your curves and comes in sizes xxs-4xl. It features a regular back and a scooped back with optional bands.  There are three sleeve lengths and four hem lengths, as well as options for a single slit or double slit. It has trimless pages and the option to print in layers.

My measurements put me in a medium for upper bust and hips and a m/l for waist.  I initially sewed a medium in scuba and didn't feel comfortable in it so I passed it on to a friend (unfinished since she knows how to sew haha).  I sized up to a large with the scuba, graded to a m in the hips and it was much better.  I had a serious challenge hemming it because it didn't like my ball point or stretch or universal needle or regular foot or walking foot or regular thread or eloflex thread (that I fortunately found at my local hobby lobby since an employee told me they didn't carry it).  I ended up gluing (!!!) the hems and so far it's worked great.  I used my wonder clips to clamp it down.  Luckily it serged beautifully.







This one is a large graded to a medium in the hips (with better blending to the smaller size than the blue one) in cotton lycra from Joanns.  It's the same fabric as my daughters' Schooner tees and I have been saving it for the perfect pattern.  I love how this pattern fits in cotton lycra! I love how it fits in the back.







I am eager to make one for Ansley (who took these pictures!)- probably a maxi length because that's what she's been asking for.  Maybe I can coordinate it with her Halloween costume.... I am also thinking about copying the tester who thought about making a rash guard with this pattern next summer. 

The ladies and girls Avenue Dresses are on sale through October 3, 2017 for only $5 CAD (which is like $4 U.S. Dollars) and then will be only $8 CAD for the rest of the week.


Thanks for stopping by!

Allium Dolmans by Sew Like My Mom

Lately it seems like the only posts that are published in a semi timely manner are from pattern testing. [I share a lot more of my sewing on instagram (@replicatethendeviate) mostly because it's super fast]. The designers I test for do not require blog posts but when I'm looking into buying a new pattern I really appreciate blog posts and seeing the patterns and their multiple views on various sizes/shapes/styles. I also like to check my "patterns I own" board on pinterest. But I have a decent backlog and want to update my sewing portfolio so it's definitely on the to do list.

The Allium Dolman by Melissa of Sew Like My Mom is the women's version of the Tulipa pattern for girls. Both patterns have many options- short sleeved or long sleeved, gathered front or non gathered front, knit or woven bodices (the yokes and neckband are knit), shirt or tunic or dress length, pockets or no pockets. The instructions are a combination of pictures and text. I love that there's a print guide so you only print the pages you want and you can print in layers.



This is my first tester version. I don't remember there being any changes from the final. (during testing there are occasionally minor adjustments to pattern pieces to improve the fit). This is the dress length with pockets (which I still need practice on with my serger). I used an athletic mesh fabric from joanns. It has decent stretch and recovery and is slightly sturdy, if that makes any sense. It will be perfect for our Florida trip next month.



I love how flattering the curve is!!!



This is a straight L according to my high bust measurement (and the size chart/instructions). There is a little bit of ease in the hips but my hips are a size smaller and I did not grade for this. I also haven't hemmed it yet because I don't have matching thread and I'm still thinking how to make the hem behave. The mesh did not love my stretch needle and I'm out of ball point needles. I do like the length as is.



I sized down for my second due to fabric. This purple fabric is from the loungeletics line at Joann and is labelled as a wicking jersey fabric. I think it's like 95% poly 5% spandex. It's quite stretchy and has good recovery. The front is smooth and has a bit of a sheen to it. The back is brushed and soft. Wearing it today it seems pretty breathable. The drape is quite nice. I was kind of irritated when I was sewing it though because it seems to snag quite easily; not from stretching but it would catch on my dryish hands and leave a slight snag. I would be more upset if I hadn't bought it using a 60% off coupon. (and now I don't know what I want to do with the white fabric I have. I already prewashed it so it's for keeps now).



I cut and sewed the tunic length (minus the hem) and tried it on. The fabric combo and the length on me looked nightgownish. The fact that I was sewing in my pajamas didn't help the tunic's cause. I let it sit for a day while deciding what to do. I debated curving the hem so it was longer in the back but didn't because of the snaggy fabric. The fabric then dictated that it wanted to be banded. I cut off several inches and slimmed the slight a line of the edges, making the bands just a little smaller (maybe half an inch) than the bottom of my shirt. I basted the band together and basted it to the shirt before serging because the fabric is kind of slippery and was curling in at the ends.



Anyway I love it! An added bonus is it makes the middle less clingy(!) and it's super comfy. We will see how long the fabric lasts.



(paired with my current favorite hey june sloan leggings in a leather look athletic fabric from Joann. I sound like a broken record. I am not affiliated with Joann but would seriously consider an offer if it ever came my way. Ha).

The Allium and Allium/Tulipa bundle are on sale through Friday. All pictures are by Ansley. She's really helpful! Thanks for reading!