The Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress Blog Tour

Hi! I'm delighted to share my Madrid Dress by Olga of Coffee and Thread Patterns. I have been so inspired and wowed by the beautiful dresses and blouses already on tour! All Coffee and Thread Patterns are 25% off with the code "madridtour" until Friday, June 28th 2019. Some of our favorite patterns are our Lana Tops (women's, girls') blogged here and the Nina Blouse blogged here and here. Thanks to Olga for the lovely patterns and to Claudia (@frl.love on instagram) for organizing! (And did you see her Madrid dress that she also sewed in knit?!)

So background story- my serger broke last week! I think the upper and lower loopers are out of alignment? They worked fine until I brushed them out with a sewing machine brush and they sewed a few nice chains before completely locking up. I haven't had time to disassemble it and figure out exactly what's going on but I'm hoping I won't break it worse than it is already broken. A service call in my area costs nearly as much as my machine did new(!) so I'm motivated to figure it out when I have time to.

Knowing that the serger was out of commission, I was lamenting having to go back to zigzagging all of the lovely tiers of the Madrid Dress. Zigzagging definitely worked fine but now that I'm used to a serger it's hard to go back! I dutifully sewed up my muslin in a size 14, according to my measurements. My sewing room is in the basement and as I was coming upstairs to press my fabric I remembered a cut of blue and white striped fabric in The Stash. It's been in The Stash for so long I can't remember where it came from or when I got it. It is soft and feels like a rayon spandex and had been asking to be sewn into a dress for years but I didn't have the right pattern until this blog tour! (Most of you probably sew knits on your sergers exclusively so I realize this is a little strange to decide to go all knit but the advantage of not having to finish edges plus my love for the color and not having an invisible zipper with a matching pull on hand were very persuasive). I also was reminiscing about visiting Madrid and wearing this knit faux wrap dress! (presewing days)



I tossed the fabric in the wash to prewash it and pulled out my Lana Top pattern (also in a size 14). Why did I use the Lana Pattern? Because it's drafted for knits and I already knew it fit me well. The Madrid Dress has eight darts for shaping but I didn't want to use them in my knit.
I traced my pattern piece in green and freehanded the cap sleeve, trying to copy Mie (@sewinglikemad) as best as possible. (see how in her highlights!)



I laid my Madrid muslin (with darts sewn) on top of the Lana bodice and traced it in pink.



Then I combined the two with purple pencil.



Same idea with the back (with the cap sleeves and combining the Lana back bodice and the Madrid muslin with darts).



The other change I made was to add pockets! I had just drafted this pocket piece for a skirt I sewed for myself (and then for Ansley). I held up the pattern piece for Tier 1 from the Madrid Dress to my body and felt the pocket would be best placed like so:



I was unsure how to add pockets with an invisible zipper but Heidi figured it out and shared on her blog! (which I saw after finishing my dress ;))

Let's talk about this fabric. It's soft and lovely and pretty stretchy. I wanted to play with the stripes on the outside but kind of wanted to stablize (and finish all of the edges of the bodice) so I opted to cut a full lining for the bodice with the stripes horizontal like they are intended to be. I didn't bother to line up stripes on the lining because it's the lining and because I was running out of fabric. I knew I'd be happier if I added clear elastic to the shoulder seams and the waistband but I was surprised how much ease there was in the waistband after trying it on. I did sew a little bit of regular 1/4 inch elastic to the back only but you can't really tell. Haha. I think if I sewed this dress in a more stable fabric like cotton lycra that it would fit closer.

Anyway, here's how I fully lined the bodice.

I sewed the front pieces to the back for the lining and the main.



Added clear elastic to the shoulder seams on the main bodice.



Wonder clipped the front (wrap part of the bodice and neckline) and sleeves with main and lining right sides together and sewed. (and I didn't crop out my husband's drink of choice haha).



Turned right side out and pressed well. (no pic). Opened up the front and back bodices and sewed right sides together (like this post!) (no pic).

Baste the faux wrap and raw edges together.



Loving the length as basted. I was surprised how heavy the skirt was, as you can see in the pics. (and how cute would it be with a skirt like this one?!)





Then add the tiers. :)

You'll notice I only added two tiers due to fabric constraints. And I actually used the selvege instead of hemming. I later sewed on a small snap to keep the wrap closed because the fabric has such nice drape.







I am wanting to sew a cotton lycra or french terry version and/or a cotton lycra bodice with a woven skirt (after resuscitating the serger). Or even a skirt like Emi's!

Thanks for stopping by!!

Jalie 3908 Simone Wide-Leg Shorts and Pants

Hello! This is my third (and final, at least for today) post about the newest collection by Jalie Patterns.

The Simone Wide-Leg Shorts and Pants come in 28 sizes. When I picked the patterns I wanted to preview the working title said they were for women so I planned to make them for myself. In actuality they are also for girls and women and plus sizes! I love how generous Jalie is with their multiple sizes and this pattern looks equally darling on the young and less young. The pattern includes layers so you can print the size(s) you need. There are appropriate notches and marking and I appreciated the instructions on where to include interfacing and to baste the pockets and understitch, which always leads me to a more professional finish.

After I printed the pattern and instructions I got a little nervous when I read about the pleats(!) and that the belt isn't removeable (!) (I've never been big on belt wearing because I'm fluffier around the middle and like to avoid bulk) and the fabric recommendation of lightweight fabrics with a soft hand and nice drape (!) (would this cling to my tummy?!) but it turns out I had no need to be worried!!!! I'm still a little bit in shock whenever I wear these pants (which is pretty much whenever they are clean) that through some wizardry I can pull off pleated, belted and bowed, lightweight pants. A new friend, Lizette (@zettsews on Instagram)in the Jalie Ambassador group posted a picture of her daughter in her Alice V Neck Top and Simone Pants and I loved the faux romper look! I had already sewn up my solid Alice V Neck Top and decided to see if I had enough fabric left over for my Simone Pants. I knew I wouldn't look like her gorgeous daughter with her cute figure but thought it was worth a try.

As you may have guessed I LOVE this look! I got so many compliments on it at my daughter's dance dress rehearsal and preschool pick up. It has the look of a romper (or jumpsuit) but it easier to wear on those days I drink a ridiculous amount of water. ;) It feels like secret pajamas! And maybe that's partly due to this glorious fabric which is either 52% tencel 48% cotton (or vice versa) that began its life as a bedsheet that I have been saving for the perfect project. I did spare some of the set to sew lounge pants for my husband because I don't sew for him very often so I used the good stuff on him.

I cut the full length pants and have been having a partly internal/partly with my husband/occasional polling/brainstorming on instagram/Googling since the Kendrick Overalls about the perfect length for full length pants. Should they skim the floor? Should they always be paired with heels? Is it acceptable to wear them with flip flops? Should they be cropped an inch above the ankle? Should they come to the base of the calf? You get the idea. Anyway, the full length ones definitely looked ridiculous on me with my house slippers. I decided they would be cuter just above my ankle or right above my knees. The longer length won so I would waste less fabric that I'd already cut and that's what felt right after polling the Jalie Ambassadors and my way more fashionable sisters. I have no regrets about this outfit!
















Ansley saw my faux romper (because I've been wearing it nonstop) and requested one too. It was easy to say yes because I'd already sewn the patterns and they are available in her size and I owed her a romper from two summers ago. I didn't know it would take me so long to make it happen because May is crazy but I finished her Simone Pants in between our photo session from the previous post and the large rain storm. I used a lightweight chambray with a whale print from The Stash (probably originally from Joann Fabrics). It was really nice to sew after sewing the more slippery tencel and rayon challis and shiny cotton.

I sewed a size O for Ansley and a size W for myself based on our hip measurements (my hips are closer to a size V but since my waist is larger I went with the W). Both of our waists measure larger than our hips so I used the corresponding elastic amounts and it worked well! Ansley's hips are a little smaller but since her fabric is a light color I thought a little extra ease at the hips to help hide undies would be appropriate. She requested hers be around knee length and I think they look cute on her! She decided she's going to wear this on the last day of fifth grade and the first day of sixth grade. I should also mention that I did not need any crotch adjustments like I some times do and no calf adjustments (because the pants are wide legged!)
















I picked up a dark denim tencel blend to sew another pair for myself. I am planning to leave off the belt and belt loops so I can wear them with untucked tops and tees but I can't decide if I should sew a full length or slightly cropped (like my grey ones) or knee length ones (like Ansley's). What do you think?

Thanks for stopping by!

Jalie 3904 Alice V Neck Tops

Hello! This is the second of three posts about the new Jalie Collection. As a Jalie Ambassador I was able to preview some of the new patterns.

I fell in love with the triangular lines of the line drawing of the Alice V Neck Top Pattern (Jalie 3904) because they were begging to be colorblocked. Ironically the first version I sewed was in a solid (and I will be sharing it in the next post with the Simone pants). I sewed the second and third ones at the same time but the second one was in one fabric also!

Jalie 3904 Alice V Neck Top is a boxy v neck top finished with a facing (and keyhole back for girls' sizes) with an optional elastic casing at the waist. There are 28 sizes and the option to print only the size(s) you need. Seam allowances are included and there are notches and other markings to make sure the right pieces are lined up properly before sewing.

I chose to sew a size O for Ansley based on her measurements. Her bust, waist, hips, and torso actually all fit into different sizes but I opted not to grade since the style is relaxed. The size O is actually right in the middle of her measurements and the size her torso is. I cut out the keyhole facing piece but wonder clipped the two facings together and had her try them on. She was able to get them over her head without any trouble so I did not sew the keyhole on hers. She is at the very top of the girls' sizes though so if Lisbon decides she wants one I will need to use the keyhole for her. I chose to sew a size Y for me based on my full bust and torso measurements (and after consulting the finished measurements chart) and did not grade in for my waist or hips.

Alice is designed for light weight fabrics with a soft hand and nice drape. Ansley readily agreed to using this chambray with printed whales that I had in The Stash for a romper (that never happened) and mine is made with remnants from my (unblogged but on instagram @replicatethendeviate) Cinema Dress and scraps from Ansley's Polina Dress (that Lisbon wore today to church!) and a bit of (I think!) rayon challis from The Stash. The pink and blue are supima cotton sateen from Joann fabrics and kind of slippery to sew (maybe because of the sheen?). They tend to fray a lot but have a nice drape. They are slightly stiffer than the white tencel and the black rayon challis but not much different in (perceived) weight. I feel like the white is the lightest and the black is the heaviest but there is minimal difference between the three different types of fabrics.



















We quickly snapped these pictures after church and I came home and sewed the Simone Pants for Ansley as fast as I could. Luckily I finished right before a big rain storm!

In these pictures Ansley is wearing a pair of rtw pull on jeans (though I'm really wanting to try the Jalie Eleonores (which have spent years in my online cart) and I'm wearing my favorite Sandbridge Skirt (which apparently never made it to the blog either....)



Thanks for stopping by!

Jalie 3901 Kate Gymnastics Leotards

Hello! I'm excited to share these Kate Leotards, one of the newest leotards from Jalie Patterns. My girls have been living in these since I finished them (as you can tell from the multiple picture locations (since we were winded/dusted one day and another day was really cold and another day the light was just lovely)).

I was recently invited to join the Jalie Ambassador group and got to preview some of the new patterns! Since the patterns come in 28 sizes I was able to use the same patterns for me and my girls! This is the first of three posts on the new collection for clarity/brevity.

The Kate Leotard has a higher bound neckline and a sleeveless option (with binding) or a long sleeved option. There are optional applique options that can transform the look of the leotard. The pattern instructions are available on the website (and with the pattern) and the pattern can be printed in layers so you can print only the size(s) you need. Pattern pieces include notches and markings to align all the pieces properly.

I chose to sew a size K for Lisbon and a size P for Ansley based on their measurements. The fabric the girls picked came from The Stash and Joann Fabrics. Everything fit together beautifully!







I sewed the binding on incorrectly on Lisbon's (I should've sewed on the edge of the elastic instead of right next to it) but was able to figure it out by the time I sewed Ansley's. Ansley requested a short sleeve so I simply drew a line where I wanted the sleeve to end and added the hem allowance. We found it helpful to color in the line drawings with the proposed colors of appliques/sleeves/body so we could visualize how it would turn out. I also found it helpful to use wonder tape on the appliques because they didn't shift with the pins. I had just finished the (unblogged!) Anne Wheeler costume using the Jalie Tessa pattern and found wonder tape invaluable when I was in such a time crunch! (there are pics on my instagram @replicatethendeviate and I'll try to get it to the blog). My Bernina 801 prefers stretch needles (vs ballpoint) when working with this fabric.

























These leotards have been tested at dance class and acro and while dancing while watching World of Dance and they stay put (no wedgies- sorry if that's tmi) and are comfortable and easy to move in.







Thank you for stopping by!