Thursday, November 24, 2016

ConiferJacket

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

After piano lessons a week and a half ago Ansley asked me to make her a jacket with a diagonal zipper like her babysitter had. Luckily for her I was already working on this Conifer Jacket. This is the newest pattern by Adrianna of Hey June and it is the best!! I used luxe fleece from Joann (which is life changing! It stays soft and isn't pilly and doesn't warp out of shape. My girls won't stop cuddling it!) and a zipper from Joann. I wish I had used a less bulky zipper but the color matched the best. Next time I will choose more wisely.

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

I was lucky enough to be able to test this pattern. This is a straight 8 (her measurements), with the moto collar. The fit is perfect! The instructions are perfect! The front flap is fully faced and the way the back yokes are finished is so professional. I love the undersleeve and the asymmetric zipper. The only modification I did was to use half cotton lycra knit and half fleece for the pockets. I actually used scraps from the dress she's wearing (The Janie Dress by Welcome to the Mouse House).

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

The pattern includes instructions to make a vest, a standard collar, moto collar, and a no collar option. Sturdy heavier weight knits are recommended like sweatshirting. The directions include instructions for interfacing to lead to a more professional finish. The diagrams and text are helpful, as is the Hey June Patterns Facebook group.

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

The jacket looks darling zipped up all the way, part of the way, or not at all. (Pardon the closed eyes, this is the only picture in this pose haha).

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

All Hey June Patterns are on sale (30% off) including this one starting tonight at midnight until 11/27. The code is "BLACKFRIDAY16". Don't miss out! Check it out here! (aff link)

Now I can't stop thinking about making a matching Evergreen Jacket for me! Thanks for stopping by!

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

yearbook2016 by replicate then deviate

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Summer Swim Tour 2016

Hello Friends!

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

We are thrilled to be on the Summer Swim Tour, hosted by Ajaire of Call Ajaire, Saskia of The Wolf and the Tree, and Jess of Gracious Threads and sponsored by Imagine Gnats. Thank you for the invite ladies!!! I was gifted the pattern and green fabric and, as usual, all opinions are my own.

First things first- discount codes for you:

During the tour Designs by Call Ajaire is offering 20% off all patterns in the Etsy shop using the code SWIMTOUR, Gracious Threads is offering 15% off the purchase of 3 or more patterns in her shop (no coupon needed), and The Wolf and the Tree is offering 15% off patterns in her shop using the code SWIMTOUR as well.

And enter the rafflecopter giveaway for lots of dreamy goodies on here!

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

My girls are between sizes so I sized up. I made practice suits first out of the purple sparkly fabrics from Joann. And if you look closely you can see that I didn't check well enough when cutting out the back piece of Lisbon's on the reverse side of the fabric. I made view A but love the color blocking options of view B and the ease of bathroom breaks for the tankini versions.

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

My machine gave me fits after trying four new ball point or stretch needles of various sizes (whatever I had in The Stash), and oiling and cleaning the machine, and rethreading, and rewinding the bobbin, and trying different stitches. I ended up using the stitch that looks like a wave after Ajaire suggested to try that one (lifesaver!! Thank you!!) and for some reason my machine liked sewing without the walking foot better than with the walking foot. I sew on my grandma's bernina 801 that is probably about my age. I think my machine is telling me to quit putting off its annual spa appointment (maintenance). Now I also think I "need" a coverstitch machine. HAHA.

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

My favorite parts of the pattern are the modest fit and coverage and the full lining!!! The instructions are clear and there are so many options to customize a suit just the way you or your daughter wants. It is also easy to blend between sizes if needed.

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

I followed the instructions exactly for the purple ones.

dbca classic maillot by replicate then deviate

Ansley felt the legs were a little too snug on the purple suit so I gave her a little more room with the second suit (the green one) I made.

DBCA classic maillot by replicate then deviate

DBCA classic maillot by replicate then deviate

For the green one (side note- LOVE the green fabric from Imagine Gnats!! It is so soft and snaps back into shape. And cheaper than Joann's non sale fabric) I used swim elastic. I should have compared the regular 3/8 inch elastic and the 1/4 inch swim elastic (the only size I could find) for stretch and recovery. As you can see the green turned out quite a bit larger than the purple despite cutting the same size. And it's not entirely the 1/8 inch difference in elastic width. I definitely don't mind that it's larger though- she'll get to wear it for longer.

DBCA classic maillot by replicate then deviate

It also really helped me to baste the lining and main for the armscye and the legs for the green one in addition to the neckline and chest.

DBCA classic maillot by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!!

DBCA classic maillot by replicate then deviate

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Linville Romper (and dress) by Hey June

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

Right as school was ending, Ansley asked me for a romper. A few weeks later I eagerly responded to a tester call for the Linville Romper by Adrianna of Hey June! I used a pretty lisette cotton lawn from The Stash and some leftover handmade bias tape for the keyhole and purchased bias tape from The Stash. The handmade bias tape was softer and more pliable and I knew it would be easier to use on the keyhole.

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

As per usual, the instructions and drafting are fantastic, genius even! And there are so many variations! And it's Affiliate link">ON SALE (as well as all of the other junior's patterns) this weekend, no code needed. (aff link that I may not have done correctly since this is my first one).

I did press the hems of the shorts before sewing, as I usually do. And we tore the front when Ansley tried it on before I added the binding so be careful if you're using a delicate fabric! I scooped out the 1/2 inch tear and rounded the neckline a bit more than the pattern called for.

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

Cartwheel approved!! And now I want to match hahaha.

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

hey june linville romper by replicate then deviate

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Ansley's BB-8 Dress

Hello! I know it's been forever!

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

We finally saw Star Wars The Force Awakens during Christmas break and I've been wanting to make Ansley a BB8 dress ever since! (And she's been wanting one ever since).

Patterns Used:
Bodice- Clara by Violette Field Threads without ruffles, size 9-10 (size 7 was way too small)
Sleeves- Adelaide by Violette Field Threads, size 7 because I didn't want gathers at the top of the sleeve
Self drafted half circle skirt with piecing (a few process pics on instagram @replicatethendeviate)

Fabric:
white 97% cotton 3% spandex bottom weight fabric from Joann
Orange quilting cotton (I don't remember the name but not the kona because the kona wasn't the right color) from Joann
(buttons from Hancock Fabric, sewn with the holes vertically so it looks like an eight)

Pettiskirt from Pettiskirt Style.

Modifications: (aka not following pattern directions)
*used the burrito method (I'm sure there's a "real" term for it but I don't know what it is. Anyone?) for the sleeve cuffs and for sewing the sleeves into the bodice
*didn't use the Clara's placket (and in hindsight I probably should've added a zipper because there are no gathers on the back. Also using the selvedge made the back a little stiffer than I like but oh well)

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Lots of topstitching!

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Decent manual button holes. Don't mind my washable crayola marker markings. I haven't washed the dress yet. Buttons sewn with the holes stacked so it looks like an eight.

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Paper masks from Target in their Halloween clearance.

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

She picked this pose because BB8's head rotates.

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Too funny to not share. HAHA.
BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Dress in action. I will have to take a shot like this outdoors sometime; she was too cold to stay out any longer and I don't blame her.

BB8 dress by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by! May the Force be with you!

Monday, September 8, 2014

September Showcase with Frances Suzanne; Cosi Swimsuit by Sewpony Vintage



Welcome! I'm thrilled to be a part of the September Showcase hosted by the lovely ladies of Frances Suzanne. I chose to sew the Cosi Swimsuit pattern by Sewpony Vintage, which has deservedly been super popular around blog land. *I received a complimentary copy of the pattern in exchange for a pattern review but all opinions and supplies are my own.*

SeptemberShowcaseLOGO300px



Supplies used:
Cosi Swimsuit pattern
silver polka dot on black fabric and lining purchased at Joann
swimsuit elastic purchased at Joann
regular polyester thread (the outdoor/heavy duty stuff gave my machine and me fits)
ball point needle (I opted to finish with a zig zag stitch instead of using a double needle because I couldn't find my ballpoint double needle)
wonder clips
walking foot

View:
view d- one piece with ruffle. I chose to make the straps non adjustable

Size:
I sewed a size six for Ansley because that's how big her chest is. It is not super snug and that's okay with me. She actually measured a size seven but I'm glad I didn't make her a size seven. There are instructions to try the swimsuit on and adjust for the fit you intend which is wonderful if your model is available. I would find this difficult if I was sewing for someone who didn't live nearby.

Favorite parts of the pattern:
the variety of views and customization options- gathering, one or two piece, color blocking possibilities, different straps
the fit- LOVE the modest leg and coverage!!!!
notches and other pattern markings so everything lines up as intended
ability to print which view you want and not have to waste paper

A few tips:
I wish I had basted the lining to the swimsuit before sewing the elastic in for the legs. I will definitely do it next time.

Refer to the table at the beginning of the pattern that tells you which pages your instructions are on. I was sometimes confused if I should be reading up and down the columns first or in the boxes left to right. It would've helped if I had colored or highlighted the sections that applied to me.

I overlapped the chest and leg elastics by about 1/8 inch because when I didn't and I stretched the elastic to sew it, there was a tiny gap of unelasticized fabric and it bothered me.

Misc:
The waist ruffle is about 1/8 inch shorter than the pattern calls for due to user error. (d'oh)

Conclusion: I would definitely sew this again!! The pattern is rated intermediate and it helped that I've made a swimsuit before but an advanced beginner could do this. Check out the discount codes available for this pattern and several others here. Thanks for stopping by!





Zigzagged topstitching.



Little bow in the back in case I want to let the straps out. (I might cut this off later but I like it for now).