Thursday, February 8, 2018

The Nina Blouse by Coffee and Thread Patterns

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

Hi! I'm excited to share my Nina Blouses by Olga of Coffee and Thread. I love the sweet style and the clean finishes!

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

The Nina Blouse has two sleeve lengths (cap or scalloped sleeves and long sleeves), a peter pan or scalloped collar, six pintucks, and optional bow or tie. It comes in sizes 12 months to 12 years. The pattern can be printed in layers with a home printer. The pattern pieces fit together beautifully (and have notches to help align everything) and the instructions contain diagrams and useful text and descriptions.

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

I tested the size 9 for Ansley. She measures between an 8 and 9 in the chest. I used this pretty green chambray from The Stash. During the testing process the outer shoulder seam was moved out a little from these pictures. The sleeves went in nicely without puckers, which always makes me happy. I chose to use french seams on this one because I was too lazy to rethread my serger. (it has black thread in it and I had a project planned needing black thread). I love the way the placket is finished! We used simple snaps (that didn't set very well so I might end up replacing them) because the avocado buttons she picked weren't a perfect color match and she wanted to use them for a different item (tbd).

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

The second blouse is also a size 9 (with the shoulder seam adjustment). Ansley lucked out that there was enough fabric left over from my pockets and her (unblogged triangle pencil pouch) for this blouse. This fabric is from Camelot Fabrics and has been in The Stash since right before Hancock Fabrics closed. She picked the scalloped collar and the cap sleeves. I love the way arm holes are bound on the cap sleeved versions. She also picked these star buttons when we were at Joann. I used leftover bias tape from my Bryce Cargos so this is extra matchy. Haha. I again used french seams.

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

Ansley's friend was over after her piano lessons and agreed to be in some pictures with Ansley since there is a very small window of light in the winter after school. I love that the blouse matches her shoes!

coffee and thread nina blouse by replicate then deviate

The Nina Blouse is on sale for $6.50 for a limited time! I need to sew Lisbon one and I'm thinking of sewing Ansley an Alice in Wonderland colored one for her Millionaire Club at school. I also can't stop thinking about the beautiful versions in the testing group!

Thanks for stopping by!!

Thursday, February 1, 2018

Hey June Bryce Cargo Pants

Hello!

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

I am excited to share my second and third pairs of real pants! These are the newly released Bryce Cargo Pants by Adrianna of Hey June Handmade fame. They are mid rise, slim fit pants with six pockets (slash pockets at the hips, back pockets with flaps, and side cargo pockets with flaps), a zip fly, and knee darts. They are drafted for stretch bottomweight fabrics and come in even sizes from 2-22. They are designed to hit at the ankle. Check out the Hey June blog post with lots more info and styling for every season!

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

I have been anxiously/eagerly hoping I'd get to test these after Adrianna posted a picture of the knee and pocket on her instagram (@heyjunehandmade). I have two pairs of Athleta cargos but they are a weird length on me (because I got petite and I'm too tall for petite but not tall enough for regular) and they are flared. And maybe they don't fit. Anyway, it is empowering to be able to sew pants that fit!!!!!

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

The Bryce Cargos have pieces that fit together well and pattern markings to line up your pockets/pattern pieces. There is the option to print in layers. I love the french seam finish of the hip pockets and the instructions for the fly and the clean finishes and the fit! The Bryce Cargos also include information about how to alter the pattern to fit your unique body. For example my waist measurements put me in two bigger sizes than my hips. The pattern recommends choosing size by hip measurement, which I did. I was able to use the thorough pattern instructions to create smaller back darts and refer to Adrianna's youtube video (for the sandbridge skirt) for how to add width to the waistband. (There is also a sew along in the works!)

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

It is HIGHLY recommended that one sews a muslin or practice pair for fit, saving the good fabric for after you've perfected the fit. Also it is important to not over fit and attempt to get rid of every wrinkle because most people want to be able to move around in their pants!

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

So I made a muslin (not pictured) using a mystery stretch denim from The Stash. I discovered that I needed to move the knee darts up so they were at my knee and remove some of the length (about 1 inch) betweeen hips and knee. I removed length by using the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern. I also added the length (about 4 cm but this may have been a tiny bit too much) between the knee and ankle, again using the lengthen/shorten line. I also scooped out the back curve of the seat by about 1/2 inch (the same adjustment on my lianas). In this particular fabric I did not feel like I needed to add more room to the back piece because of my calves. I also straightened the hip curve by about 1/6 inch because I am more rectangular shaped. I straightened the pocket pieces and the pocket facing and the front and back pieces by the same amount.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

After making the adjustments to my paper pattern pieces and prewashing and drying my fabric, I was ready to begin my first pair. I used a stretch denim I found at Joann (not sponsored). I think the color is so fun!! After constructing the pockets and fly I did a baste fit of the side seams and inseam and back seams. I quickly discovered that this fabric was thicker/sturdier/had less stretch than my muslin! I let out the back pieces as much as I could for my calves and used a 3/8 inch seam allowance (instead of 1/2 inch as the pattern instructs). They are still a little tighter than I'd like but they aren't like leggings tight if that makes any sense? I used my kam snaps for the front and the side cargo pockets. I chose to use the pocket facing and a lighter weight fabric for the pockets. The optional topstitching on the pocket bags is really fun. The back waistband is a little lower on me because I forgot to add back the height from scooping out the seat (oops). The height of the waistbands have been raised a little in the final version. I omitted the belt loops because I never wear belts and because the waistband was plenty snug already. I used premade bias tape for the waistband facing because it was such a good color match.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

These pictures are paired with a tester's version of the updated Hey June Union Street Tee. My serger ate the back neckline so I didn't bother hemming the sleeves and bottom. The fabric is a triblend of some sort that I found in the remnants section of Imagine Gnats (not sponsored). And all of these pictures are by Ansley.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

After seeing how these fit and realizing I had some grey sateen in The Stash (that I bought because of the sheen and thought I might use for a dress but then decided it might be a little heavy for the pattern I had in mind), I decided I needed another pair but with a different look. I added some width to the back pattern pieces (and I believe a little more room was added to the calves in the final version of the pattern) but could still use a little more. Maybe I'm doing too many squats and lunges and jumps at the gym. HAHA. Anyway, I baste fitted this pair too to decide if I should use the 1/2 inch seam allowance or the 3/8 seam allowance I used in my blue pair and to see if I gave myself enough room in the calves. You can tell there's more room but I can still use more. I also remeasured myself today and found I gained .5 inches in my hips over the last two weeks so perhaps I should size up on my next pair. Or use a fabric with more stretch. And/or eat better.


hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

This is the Sew Classic Bottomweight Stretch Sateen from Joann. I love the sheen and it's super easy to sew up. Plus it's 97% cotton 3% spandex and I'm kind of a natural fibers snob (and a chocolate snob). I again used the optional pocket facing and some fun fabric for the pocket bags. I used some bias tape I had made a while ago that was in The Stash. I also used a non metal zipper.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

The biggest change is removing the knee darts. On Adrianna's advice I cut my pattern below the darts and taped it above the darts. I also added the length I removed from the darts back to the pants at the lengthen/shorten line between the hips and knee.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

I omitted the topstitching of the pocket bags and the back and cargo pockets and flaps for a sleeker look.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

I also learned how to do a blind hem and used my blind hem foot! I think I could've made the hem 1/4 inch deeper but I'm happy with it.

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

hey june bryce cargos by replicate then deviate

This is the scoopneck version of the Union Street Tee in cotton lycra. It's not one of the recommended fabrics in the pattern but again, I'm a natural fibers snob. I love the fit and comfort of it. The fabric is from Sweet N Charmed on facebook (not sponsored). I actually got out my ballpoint double needles to hem the sleeves and hem.

For my next pair I'm thinking of using a stretchier denim (the same stuff I sewed my Lianas with) and adding jeans styling like a coin pocket and back yokes and different pockets from the Sandbridge Skirt. I will definitely give myself more room in the calves too and am considering sizing up. Be sure to check out the tester versions! I want pretty much all of them. And grab your Bryce Cargo Pants pattern here at an introductory price through this weekend. (aff link if you'd like- no additional cost to you). Congrats on such an awesome pattern Adrianna!!!

Thanks for stopping by!!!

(Eta- I removed the knee darts on the grey pair because I wanted the grey pair to be sleek instead of sporty. 😘 I did have to move the knee darts up in the blue pair because the pants are drafted for someone taller than me. It was super easy to use the lengthen/shorten line between the hips and knee as described in the instructions).



Wednesday, December 20, 2017

Coffee and Thread's Sirocco Top (and Dress)

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

I am so excited to finally share my Sirocco Top. Olga, the mastermind behind Coffee and Thread, posted her top a few months ago and I was smitten. It looked so elegant paired with a slim skirt. I am so glad she decided to grade it and offer it as a pattern for the rest of us. I eagerly signed up to test and was fortunate to be picked in the pretest round.

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

The Sirocco Top and Dress is designed for light wovens with excellent drape. It features bell sleeves and a high low top option as well as a dress. The deep facings are my favorite and I would love to use a contrast fabric for the facings next time. (I did not have anything of a similar weight in The Stash). The sizes range from 2-20 and the pattern can be printed with just the size(s) you need. Notches are provided to line up the facings and other seams. The pieces fit together beautifully and I love that it includes instructions for understitching and using a knit interfacing.

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

I sewed the size 10 based on my bust measurement. I did not make any alterations or changes (besides piecing together the facings and cutting them against the grain) although next time I may add a little bit of length to the front because I chase after a three year old. (I am 5'4" on a good day but I think my torso borders on the longer side). I used a black rayon challis from imagine gnats (not sponsored). I also used a ton of wonder tape and my walking foot to try to keep the fabric from slipping and feel I was moderately successful. I probably should've cut my pieces flat instead of on the fold and I should have my scissors sharpened. If I had used a less fiddly fabric it would've been a pretty quick sew. I have no regrets about using rayon challis though!

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

I was pleasantly surprised to find this top has become a staple in my wardrobe. It looks equally good paired with jeans (my lianas) or with skirts (this one is from Gymboree). I also paired it with my shiny black Hey June Sloan Leggings but they were in the wash when Ansley was available to take pictures for me. We were freezing.

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

The Sirocco Top and Dress is available in the Coffee and Thread shop for $9.50 (regularly $12) until Saturday, December 23rd. There is also an additional discount code in the Coffee and Thread Facebook Group.

coffee and thread sirocco top by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Itch to Stitch's Paro Cardi and Liana Stretch Jeans

Hi! Welcome to my stop on the #ITSLoveTour- a blog tour to show our love for Kennis, the stellar designer behind Itch to Stitch, who had the misfortune of returning home to find her home burglarized and her sewing machines, cameras, and computers (and other items) stolen. Thank you to the numerous sponsors and bloggers and companies for their support. And scroll through to enter the awesome giveaways. ;)

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This tour gave me the motivation to pick up the Paro Cardigan pdf pattern. This yummy french terry was generously provided by Ti of Simply by Ti. I love the shaping of the paro (which is achieved through twelve pleats!) and that it's designed to fall below the hips so I can wear it with leggings!

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

The Paro Cardigan comes in sizes 00-20. It has the option to print in layers. The pleats and notches are clearly marked and the pieces fit together beautifully. The drafting and instructions are excellent. I love that the instructions also give several options for finishing and instructions to include a contrast fabric for the waistband and band. There is also an optional button closure that I chose not to do because my machine doesn't love buttonholes.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size 10, according to my bust and waist (upper bust 35.5, bust 39, waist 31.8, hips 39). I did not make any size adjustments. I am happy with the fit! I think I want to make my next one with some star wars fabric at the waist!

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This pink french terry is easy to sew with and feels nice to wear! I had sewn up a lane raglan a few weeks ago so I knew I'd love it. It doesn't fray at the raw edges like some french terry I've sewn with. Since it's cotton it presses nicely. I did notice the highest heat on my iron made the color change slightly purple when I was pressing but it went away as soon as I removed the iron and I can't tell where the heat marks were. I used the second hottest heat setting for the remainder of the pressing, which also worked well. I washed and dried this cardi after sewing to remove my fabric markings and this is how it looks straight out of the dryer. With most knits I line dry but I dried this on low and am happy with how it looks.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

For 2017 I made one new year's resolution- to sew a pair of jeans (or pants- leggings and pull on pants excluded). Did you make a new year's resolution? I used to make a bunch and then I would get overwhelmed and not work on any of them after mid February. Then for a few years I didn't make any. This year I picked one that I knew would be challenging but I also knew I'd feel so empowered/excited when I achieved it. This tour and the sewalong that Melissa and Diane hosted on facebook and Kennis' sewalong on her blog were the motivation/support I needed. Thanks to these ladies and the supportive sewing community for their help/tips/support/inspiration! It was also really helpful to have sewn the Sandbridge Skirt this summer so I'd had some experience figuring out tension for topstitching on my machine and installing my first zipped fly.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

The Liana Stretch Jeans come in sizes 00-20. They have a midrise in the back, which I totally appreciate, and traditional five pocket styling (with optional back pocket flaps). There are also three leg styles (skinny, straight, and boot cut) which is really cool to be able to use one pattern for many different looks! This pair is the straight leg version.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I used high stretch denim that I found at my local Joann. Here's the online listing that popped up in my search though obviously the color is way different for some reason. It's a cotton/poly/spandex blend. The reverse is actually black instead of the typical denim and I felt like it shredded black threads when prewashing. Fortunately my serger is still threaded with black thread from Ansley's ranger costume. The only real frustration I had with the fabric is it's only 46 inches wide (instead of 54) so I needed an extra yard to cut one of the legs.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I followed along closely with the Itch to Stitch sew along- especially the fitting days. I picked to sew a size 6 even though my sewing double, Ti, sewed a 4 because my fabric had a little less than 20% stretch. When I did the first fitting I was pleasantly surprised with how well they fit. I am glad I did the full legs instead of shorts because I needed some space for my calves. I ended up scooping out the seat 5/8 inch for my low butt, took a 1/2 inch dart out of the back top yoke (blending to nothing at the bottom of the yoke), and tapered the back legs out 1/2 inch at the knees for my calves. I also shortened the pattern pieces by 1.25 inches based on an estimate from my fitting. After sewing I decided I wanted a little more length so I gave myself an additional 1/4 inch on my pattern pieces for next time. I did it right away so I wouldn't forget.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I still have some wrinkles, which I expect because we need to be able to move in our pants! I'm not sure if it's worth looking at a sway back adjustment in the yoke because most of my sway back is above the normal waistband anyway and when I make sure the waistband is where it belongs the wrinkles disappear. I do have some phantom wrinkles at my hips but these are way less significant than rtw jeans on me.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I used two denim threads for topstitching. They are labeled as jeans thread and are variegated. I wound some thread on a bobbin because I didn't have two spools. And note to myself because I forgot- change the tension to midway between + and neutral for topstitching or the bobbin threads will be a tangly twisty nightmare.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I love the support from the pocket stays! I upcycled the old curtains from our townhouse kitchen, Sound of Music style, for the pockets.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This fly installation method happens to be the same as my sandbridge skirts and I was elated the zippers went in beautifully and successfully the first time!!! I used the leftover jeans buttons from my sandbridge skirts. I used a metal zipper and for some reason it was significantly easier to shorten than on my first sandbridge skirt. I'm definitely not complaining. I didn't use rivets this time because I had a headache when I was finishing up.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I chose to substitute 1/4 inch elastic in the waistband for the twill tape because Ti said hers were a little too stiff in the waistband. I wanted something for support but something that would also relax a little through the day because my belly tends to fluctuate.

I sewed the belt loops on even though I don't wear belts. I'm debating removing the side ones because they are a bit bunchy when I sit. I think I might not have sewed them in as flat as I should also.

(top is the original union st tee)

Thanks to my eight year old for the pics. She was a good sport when I asked her to reshoot on Monday since the pics from Sunday were so dark after choir practice.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by! Please make sure to enter the giveaways and link up your Itch to Stitch lovelies created in October or November 2017.

First, you may enter our giveaway to win one of three prize packs:

Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

$25GC to Simply By Ti

$50 Raspberry Creek Gift Card

$50 Bella Sunshine gift card


Prize Pack #2 includes:

$50 Knit Pop GC

$25 Designer Stitch GC

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

3 patterns of choice from Coffee And Thread


Prize Pack #3 Includes:

$15 Thread & Grain store credit

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

3 patterns from Halla Patterns


A Rafflecopter Giveaway

Your second way to win is to share with us your recent Itch to Stitch creations (made between October and November 2017). Add your creations to our Link Up Party before Nov. 20th for a chance to win one of two prize packs.


LinkUp Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

A $40 value PFRE Sly Fox Fabrics.

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

$50 Love Notions GC


LinkUp Prize Pack #2 includes:

$25 Stylish Fabric GC & sewing box kit

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

5 patterns from Rad Patterns

Pattern of choice from DG Patterns

 

 





 

Giveaway and Linkup prize winners will be announced on or about November 21st.



Your ITS Love bloggers are

Monday: Sew Sophie Lynn, Merritts Makes, Sewing with Sarah, Sewing with D

Tuesday: Shalini's Blog, Auschicksews, Rebel and Malice, Sewing Vortex

Wednesday: Replicate Then Deviate, mahlicadesigns, Sewing with D, The Petite Sewist, kreamino

Thursday: Sewing Curves, Creative Counselor, Sew Mariefleur, Fairies, Bubbles & Co, Sewing by Ti

Friday: Harper+Lu, MeMade, On Wednesdays We Sew, Heather Handmade, Bellevi, and visit by mooglii on IG