Tuesday, October 23, 2018

The Kendrick Overalls by Hey June Patterns

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

I didn't know I needed overalls in my life again until Adrianna started showing sneak peaks of the Kendrick Overalls on her instagram (@heyjunehandmade). I had overalls several years ago and while they were comfy and cool (mostly temperature cool, not necessarily stylishly cool) one truly unflattering picture my parents sent with our family Christmas card in like 2001 is burned in my mind. However, these overalls are not that unfortunate pair!

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

The Kendrick Overalls are a high waisted cropped wide leg pant OR fitted skirt with or without the bib. So basically they are four patterns in one! The bib isn't the standard overall bib I think of (you know, that boxy thing) but they have darts and fit and flatter the body.

Let's talk about the high waisted thing for a second. I had always shied away from them because they felt weird on me or I felt like I looked weird in them or the pockets are unflattering or the tapered legs were gross on me etc., etc., etc. I am also less toned in the middle since having children. However, sewing has changed all of that! I can blend sizes if I need, eliminate wedgies, change length! The crazy thing is I hardly had to do anything to this pattern to make it fit how I wanted! I scooped out the seat 1/2 inch (normal for me and I'll add another 1/8th inch to my next pair) and I used smaller seam allowances in the side seams, which was super easy because there's a one inch seam allowance at the outer seams included in the pattern. A simple baste fit was all I needed to get my ideal size!

Like all Hey June patterns there are excellent illustrations and instructions and the option to print in layers or at a copy shop. The Kendrick Overalls come in sizes 2-22. They are drafted for non stretch wovens. I always appreciate the professional finishing instructions and the helpful notches to line up pieces. There are also different pocket options and a pocket stay, which is the best! So sleek! And the pocket bags don't flip out!

I sewed the overalls first. I used a denim with a tiny bit of stretch from a local store (like maybe 1% spandex or about 5% stretch) that went out of business. I sewed a size 10 based on my measurements. The rise in the final version has been raised an inch from this version. I scooped out the seat 1/2 inch, which is normal for me. I also used a 3/4 inch seam on the out seams. I have been wearing these a lot since finishing them and decided I needed to loosen the straps a little more so the seat feels more comfortable than these pictures. It's kind of a fine balance with the straps- a little too loose and they like to slide off my shoulders (again, NORMAL for me. I have never found a purse that actually stays on my shoulders unless it's a cross body style) or a little too tight like when I took these pics. The straps do remind me not to slouch, so that's another unforeseen plus.

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

I sewed the skirt next in a non stretch somewhat light canvas from IKEA years ago. Since it feels amazing when standing or walking but is a little snug for my preference when sitting down for long periods of time, I think I overfit it a little. I also may have been counting on this fabric to relax a little like denim does but it doesn't. It's a good lesson for me. Anyway, the skirt came together beautifully and easily. I chose not to topstitch with contrasting thread (or even topstitch thread) to make it a little less casual. I adore the slit detail in the front and the chunky hem. I will likely lower the top of the slit a little on my next pair (personal preference) and consider grading the waistband out to be more comfortable for my shape.

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

I'm planning to batch sew a few pairs of wide legged, full length trousers in a navy twill and dark denim and/or pink denim.

(Overall pics paired with an Aurora Tee minus the long sleeves. Skirt paired with a Union St Tee. Pics by my nine year old).

Make sure to check out the tester round up too! So many amazing makes and pictures!

And here's my (aff link if you'd like- no additional cost to you).

hey june kendrick overalls by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Sunday, October 21, 2018

The Orchid Midi by Chalk and Notch

Did you see the gorgeous Orchid Midi by Chalk and Notch and the Parasol Jumpsuit by Ensemble Patterns released this month? I'm still swooning over all of the versions and combinations of these two patterns! You need to check out these posts if you haven't already!! (Gabriela's post! Celina's post!)

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

I was lucky enough to be able to test the Orchid Midi and I just love it! I feel so elegant and comfortable in it! This was my first test for Gabriela and I really like how she divided her testing into different phases, which was new to me.

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

I was in the first phase test group, so there have been a few minor changes to the final pattern (which is NORMAL over the course of testing but I didn't want to misrepresent this gorgeous pattern!). The final pattern has been shortened in the skirt and the sleeves are slightly longer than my version shows.

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

The Orchid Midi comes in sizes 0-18 and has a home print and copy shop version. There are layers so you only need to print the size(s) you need and there are pattern pieces for the interfacing, which is much faster for me than drawing my own pattern pieces for interfacing! There are notches and instructions for finishing the seams, which leads to a lovely finish. Sleeve options include ruffled sleeves and a long sleeve (and sleeveless if you combine it with the Parasol Jumpsuit). My favorite part is the VERY GENEROUS pockets! The instructions have clear text and illustrations.

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

This was my first proper mitered corner (at the hem) and the instructions were clear and I got a nice finish the first time around.

For this test version I used a 100% cotton. It is a little stiffer than the suggested rayon fabrics (rayon challis or rayon crepe) but similar in feel to the cotton lawn (also recommended) I have in my stash. I sewed a size 12 according to my measurements. After wearing this dress (and napping in it then taking these pics), I determined I needed to buy a tiny snap set to keep the bodice more overlapped for my comfort. I also need to redo the elastic so it's not quite as snug (again, not a pattern issue, just for personal comfort) since the sleeves ended up a little shorter than intended and I measured the elastic comfortably for my wrist.

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

I am planning a light blue floral for my next version. I might try printing the final pattern at a copy shop. I found the home print pattern was laid out very efficiently but the pages fall off my island so it's more challenging to assemble. What format do you prefer? I'm also itching to sew a pair of Parasol Trousers! You can pick up both patterns at a discount here or here until the end of the month. I also have a copy of the Orchid Midi that I'm giving away on instagram. (@replicatethendeviate)

chalk and notch orchid midi by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!




Monday, September 17, 2018

Itch to Stitch Blog Tour; The Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardigan

Hi! I am thrilled to join the "IT'S time to stitch Itch to Stitch" blog tour, where the theme is an Itch to Stitch pattern that you've been meaning to sew up but hadn't. A huge thank you to Kennis, the lovely brains and beauty behind Itch to Stitch patterns, and several fabric companies for sponsoring this event. Be sure to enter the giveaway and check out the sales at the bottom of this post and read more about this week's festivities!!!

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

This was an easy theme for me because not only do I curate a fine fabric collection, lovingly called The Stash, but I also have a LOT of sewing patterns that I obviously wanted but haven't gotten to them. I have a Pinterest board titled "patterns I own" but haven't been diligent in updating it. How do you keep track of your fabric and patterns?

Another reason this theme was easy for me is because I have been wanting to sew the Emily Culottes since their release because they have a beautiful name. ;) I was born in the 80s and am coming around to culottes again, especially since I live in the windiest place I've lived in ever. I also picked the Lisbon Cardigan because my youngest daughter's name is Lisbon and I lived in cardigans when I was in school and working. Ansley, my other daughter/blog photographer extraordinaire, thinks she needs a pattern named after her now!!

Let's talk about the Emily Culottes first. They feature a contoured waistband, side invisible zipper, pleated and flat front options, optional welt or patch pockets, and optional waist tabs or ties. They come in sizes 00-20 and have layers for easy printing. I sewed a straight size 10 based on my measurements and my muslin. My muslin actually fit without any alterations and I'm somewhat regretting that I didn't prewash the fabric for the muslin, since it was just a fit check. Lesson learned.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I used a beautiful chambray from tour sponsor, Sly Fox Fabrics. This was my first time ordering from Sly Fox Fabrics. My fabric came quickly and they even included a color catcher sheet! This chambray washed well and presses well and I really like the color. The fabric told me to make a simple version of the Emily culottes though I did debate about the welt pocket option for a while.

I made a few minor changes to the pattern. I topstitched the waistband facing down by stitching in the ditch on the front of the culottes and I opted to use my blind hem foot instead of hand sewing because the fabric is a little thin and I am extremely slow at hand sewing. I also used elastic instead of twill tape in the waist and sewed it outside of the seam allowance before turning the facings to the correct side. Lastly, I found it easier to serge the raw edges before sewing the fronts and backs together, etc.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

The Emily Culottes are fantastic for windy weather and hot summers. I think they could also be styled over tights with a heavier fabric. For my next pair I would like to move the invisible zipper from the side to the back and add inseam pockets. If I go back to work in an eye clinic I can see myself sewing a few pairs in dressier work fabrics.

The Emily Culottes are higher waisted on me than a lot of my wardrobe and told me to make the cropped version of the Lisbon cardigan. I only own one cropped cardigan so I'm still experimenting with the style but I think it definitely works with these culottes and I expect it will pair well with high waisted jeans and pencil skirts and most of my dresses.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size 10 in the Lisbon cardigan also, based on my measurements. This is the cropped, 3/4 sleeved version with snaps. I used some french terry I had in The Stash from another tour sponsor, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, leftover from an unblogged Ladies Legends Dress.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

The Lisbon Cardigan comes in sizes 00-20 and has the option to print in layers (print only the size(s) you need). The instructions are clear and I liked the section about special finishes that you might choose based on fabric. I also appreciate the directions of which way to press when using a sheer or lace front. The Lisbon Cardigan comes in cropped and full lengths and full or 3/4 sleeves. It was drafted for a height of about 5'6'". I'm 5'4" and a little longer than average through the torso. I did not alter the height of this cropped cardigan.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I like how this cardigan looks both buttoned (or snapped) and open. Thanks to my more stylish sisters for suggesting I finish this outfit with a simple white tee.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

A really cool thing about this tour is the patterns featured each day will be on sale! The Lisbon Cardigan is only $8 and the Emily Culottes are only $9 today! Be sure to check out the other posts and enter the giveaway. :)






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Thanks for stopping by!!



Monday, September 3, 2018

The Morningside Dress and Shirt by French Navy Patterns

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I am so excited I get to share The Morningside Dress and Shirt by Sarah-May of French Navy Patterns today. I was lucky to sneak into testing even though I was on vacation when the testing started. My favorite features are the hidden placket, curved hem, and the collar with collar stand.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I have been trying to write the pattern description in my own words but can't match the elegant description from the pattern:

"The ultimate in effortless boy-meets-girl cool, the Morningside pattern offers both dress and shirt styles with the option of two sleeve variations. All views feature a narrow collar, concealed placket and slightly dropped shoulders. Choose the classic, cuffed sleeve for a versatile wardrobe workhorse or the flounced sleeved for a more whimsical silhouette. Both dresses have a roomy fit, in-seam pockets and a curved high-low hemline. The shirt too has a boxy cut and a cropped length making it the perfect pairing for your favourite high-waisted pants."

So cool, right?!

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

The pdf pattern has clear instructions and illustrations and the option to print just the size(s) you need. There is also a file for printing at a copy shop, if that's your kind of thing. I was able to easily print and assemble at home. There are notches and fold lines on the pattern pieces and illustrations for exactly where to apply interfacing. The yoke is finished with a clean finish method (aka the burrito method), which is lovely.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size large, based on my measurements. This is the same size that I've been in the other French Navy Patterns I've sewn. (The Calyer Pants, The Forsythe Dress)


I picked to sew the shirt version because I was concerned this fabric would be too sheer/lightweight for a dress. I picked this fabric up at a local store's going out of business sale. I had been eyeing the navy colorway, which would've worked fine for a dress, but I missed out on it. The fabric feels like a lightweight cotton shirting and the little dots are flocked(? or fuzzyish) on the inside of the fabric.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I love the clever way the pockets are included on the dress so I might need to move that up on my sewing list.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

The Morningside Shirt is the first time I've sewn a hidden placket on a top. (I did sew a hidden fly on a pair of lounge pants for my husband. It is still somewhat confusing because the lounge pants also have elastic around the waist.) Anyway, the instructions were clearer and made more sense than the hidden fly. This was also my first time sewing a collar and collar stand and I LOVE how comfortable it is to wear and how it looks!!! I feel like I leveled up or something. The instructions for the back pleat also lead to the tidiest back pleat I've ever sewn.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I didn't alter the length at all. I'm 5'4" but I think my torso is longer than a lot of other 5'4"ers. I was thrilled to find that I can wear it with leggings and tucked or untucked! The shirt feels really comfortable on and I didn't need to give myself more room across the back or do an FBA.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

Just for fun I styled my Morningside Shirt with my turquoise Liesl and Co Extra Sharp Pencil skirt and almost leather look Sloan Leggings and unblogged white stretch denim Sandbridge Skirt from Hey June Patterns (aff link if you'd like- no additional cost to you). I can see myself wearing it with jeans or trousers and dressing it up or down.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Monday, August 20, 2018

Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

I finally got around to sewing up another Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch. I sewed a practice one towards the end of last summer but never got around to doing minor alterations to have the dress fit me better. (Tell me I'm not the only one who has done this- waited months to sew another one!) I found that I wanted to move the darts down an inch and I also wanted the waist moved down about 3/4 inch so it was closer to my natural waist. Adding this little bit of length in the bodice meant I didn't need to add length to the skirt, the other thing that I wanted to change slightly from my first version. Oh and I omitted the waist ties for this one. I love that they are an option (and an option to attach in the front or back) but it was more flattering for me and my rectangular shape to leave them off.

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate
chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

This is a size 12 with the adjustments mentioned above. I used this rayonish denim from Joann fabrics that I picked up the same time I got fabric for Ansley's romper. It sewed together fairly easily, especially since I knew I'd want bias tape when I was prepping Ansley's romper so I made extra. I used the bias tape to hem instead of drafting a hem facing and love the weight it adds to the skirt. It was a little easier to hem using the bias tape, even with the extra step of understitching.

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

I also managed to not lose the interfacing strips I had cut for the pockets on my first Fringe dress, which saved myself some prep time. (The practice/first one was sewn with a cotton lawn and it was too sheer for pockets.)

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Monday, July 2, 2018

Linville Rompers by Hey June Patterns

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

I finally delivered on the romper Ansley asked me for last summer. She outgrew the original one, which now happily fits Lisbon. I wanted to recreate the pictures but they weren't having it and it wasn't worth a fight since I got decent pictures as is. The summer evening light in our backyard is magical!

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate


I sewed a size ten for Ansley. Her measurements put her between an eight and ten, which isn't surprising because she's an average sized nine year old. She requested a tie back instead of a button and loop or a little tab and snaps. I also added about three and a half inches to the shorts. I can't remember if she specifically asked for them to be longer or just agreed that the pink one was too short (and also too small).

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

I used fabric from joanns and since it took me a whole year to get to it we decided on different fabric. I can't find the exact listing but I think it might have rayon or modal in it? It was kind of fussy when hemming and squaring off for cutting and when making bias tape. I used the lightest heat setting on my iron even though the bolt said to line dry and do not press because the fabric needed to be pressed. It was fine but the gold of the arrows might come off later? It was a risk worth taking.

(love this pic!)

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

Lisbon agreed to pose for me and she agreed to let me try to recreate the hairstyle Ansley had in the original pictures. This is her first full set of pigtails ever(!)- a moment I have been waiting for since I found out she was a girl when I was pregnant with her. I love it so much but it also makes me sad that she looks so much like a little girl. She also wanted to waddle like a penguin. She is still very much in love with penguins.

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!