Monday, September 17, 2018

Itch to Stitch Blog Tour; The Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardigan

Hi! I am thrilled to join the "IT'S time to stitch Itch to Stitch" blog tour, where the theme is an Itch to Stitch pattern that you've been meaning to sew up but hadn't. A huge thank you to Kennis, the lovely brains and beauty behind Itch to Stitch patterns, and several fabric companies for sponsoring this event. Be sure to enter the giveaway and check out the sales at the bottom of this post and read more about this week's festivities!!!

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

This was an easy theme for me because not only do I curate a fine fabric collection, lovingly called The Stash, but I also have a LOT of sewing patterns that I obviously wanted but haven't gotten to them. I have a Pinterest board titled "patterns I own" but haven't been diligent in updating it. How do you keep track of your fabric and patterns?

Another reason this theme was easy for me is because I have been wanting to sew the Emily Culottes since their release because they have a beautiful name. ;) I was born in the 80s and am coming around to culottes again, especially since I live in the windiest place I've lived in ever. I also picked the Lisbon Cardigan because my youngest daughter's name is Lisbon and I lived in cardigans when I was in school and working. Ansley, my other daughter/blog photographer extraordinaire, thinks she needs a pattern named after her now!!

Let's talk about the Emily Culottes first. They feature a contoured waistband, side invisible zipper, pleated and flat front options, optional welt or patch pockets, and optional waist tabs or ties. They come in sizes 00-20 and have layers for easy printing. I sewed a straight size 10 based on my measurements and my muslin. My muslin actually fit without any alterations and I'm somewhat regretting that I didn't prewash the fabric for the muslin, since it was just a fit check. Lesson learned.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I used a beautiful chambray from tour sponsor, Sly Fox Fabrics. This was my first time ordering from Sly Fox Fabrics. My fabric came quickly and they even included a color catcher sheet! This chambray washed well and presses well and I really like the color. The fabric told me to make a simple version of the Emily culottes though I did debate about the welt pocket option for a while.

I made a few minor changes to the pattern. I topstitched the waistband facing down by stitching in the ditch on the front of the culottes and I opted to use my blind hem foot instead of hand sewing because the fabric is a little thin and I am extremely slow at hand sewing. I also used elastic instead of twill tape in the waist and sewed it outside of the seam allowance before turning the facings to the correct side. Lastly, I found it easier to serge the raw edges before sewing the fronts and backs together, etc.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

The Emily Culottes are fantastic for windy weather and hot summers. I think they could also be styled over tights with a heavier fabric. For my next pair I would like to move the invisible zipper from the side to the back and add inseam pockets. If I go back to work in an eye clinic I can see myself sewing a few pairs in dressier work fabrics.

The Emily Culottes are higher waisted on me than a lot of my wardrobe and told me to make the cropped version of the Lisbon cardigan. I only own one cropped cardigan so I'm still experimenting with the style but I think it definitely works with these culottes and I expect it will pair well with high waisted jeans and pencil skirts and most of my dresses.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size 10 in the Lisbon cardigan also, based on my measurements. This is the cropped, 3/4 sleeved version with snaps. I used some french terry I had in The Stash from another tour sponsor, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, leftover from an unblogged Ladies Legends Dress.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

The Lisbon Cardigan comes in sizes 00-20 and has the option to print in layers (print only the size(s) you need). The instructions are clear and I liked the section about special finishes that you might choose based on fabric. I also appreciate the directions of which way to press when using a sheer or lace front. The Lisbon Cardigan comes in cropped and full lengths and full or 3/4 sleeves. It was drafted for a height of about 5'6'". I'm 5'4" and a little longer than average through the torso. I did not alter the height of this cropped cardigan.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

I like how this cardigan looks both buttoned (or snapped) and open. Thanks to my more stylish sisters for suggesting I finish this outfit with a simple white tee.

Itch to Stitch Emily Culottes and Lisbon Cardi by replicate then deviate

A really cool thing about this tour is the patterns featured each day will be on sale! The Lisbon Cardigan is only $8 and the Emily Culottes are only $9 today! Be sure to check out the other posts and enter the giveaway. :)






Visit our sponsors and enter our Rafflecopter giveaway for a chance to win this unbelievable prize package:

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Sly Fox Fabrics: $25GC

Raspberry Creek Fabrics: $50 GC

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WarmCrochet: Pair of scissors




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Thanks for stopping by!!



Monday, September 3, 2018

The Morningside Dress and Shirt by French Navy Patterns

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I am so excited I get to share The Morningside Dress and Shirt by Sarah-May of French Navy Patterns today. I was lucky to sneak into testing even though I was on vacation when the testing started. My favorite features are the hidden placket, curved hem, and the collar with collar stand.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I have been trying to write the pattern description in my own words but can't match the elegant description from the pattern:

"The ultimate in effortless boy-meets-girl cool, the Morningside pattern offers both dress and shirt styles with the option of two sleeve variations. All views feature a narrow collar, concealed placket and slightly dropped shoulders. Choose the classic, cuffed sleeve for a versatile wardrobe workhorse or the flounced sleeved for a more whimsical silhouette. Both dresses have a roomy fit, in-seam pockets and a curved high-low hemline. The shirt too has a boxy cut and a cropped length making it the perfect pairing for your favourite high-waisted pants."

So cool, right?!

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

The pdf pattern has clear instructions and illustrations and the option to print just the size(s) you need. There is also a file for printing at a copy shop, if that's your kind of thing. I was able to easily print and assemble at home. There are notches and fold lines on the pattern pieces and illustrations for exactly where to apply interfacing. The yoke is finished with a clean finish method (aka the burrito method), which is lovely.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size large, based on my measurements. This is the same size that I've been in the other French Navy Patterns I've sewn. (The Calyer Pants, The Forsythe Dress)


I picked to sew the shirt version because I was concerned this fabric would be too sheer/lightweight for a dress. I picked this fabric up at a local store's going out of business sale. I had been eyeing the navy colorway, which would've worked fine for a dress, but I missed out on it. The fabric feels like a lightweight cotton shirting and the little dots are flocked(? or fuzzyish) on the inside of the fabric.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I love the clever way the pockets are included on the dress so I might need to move that up on my sewing list.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

The Morningside Shirt is the first time I've sewn a hidden placket on a top. (I did sew a hidden fly on a pair of lounge pants for my husband. It is still somewhat confusing because the lounge pants also have elastic around the waist.) Anyway, the instructions were clearer and made more sense than the hidden fly. This was also my first time sewing a collar and collar stand and I LOVE how comfortable it is to wear and how it looks!!! I feel like I leveled up or something. The instructions for the back pleat also lead to the tidiest back pleat I've ever sewn.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

I didn't alter the length at all. I'm 5'4" but I think my torso is longer than a lot of other 5'4"ers. I was thrilled to find that I can wear it with leggings and tucked or untucked! The shirt feels really comfortable on and I didn't need to give myself more room across the back or do an FBA.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

Just for fun I styled my Morningside Shirt with my turquoise Liesl and Co Extra Sharp Pencil skirt and almost leather look Sloan Leggings and unblogged white stretch denim Sandbridge Skirt from Hey June Patterns (aff link if you'd like- no additional cost to you). I can see myself wearing it with jeans or trousers and dressing it up or down.

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

french navy patterns the morningside shirt by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Monday, August 20, 2018

Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

I finally got around to sewing up another Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch. I sewed a practice one towards the end of last summer but never got around to doing minor alterations to have the dress fit me better. (Tell me I'm not the only one who has done this- waited months to sew another one!) I found that I wanted to move the darts down an inch and I also wanted the waist moved down about 3/4 inch so it was closer to my natural waist. Adding this little bit of length in the bodice meant I didn't need to add length to the skirt, the other thing that I wanted to change slightly from my first version. Oh and I omitted the waist ties for this one. I love that they are an option (and an option to attach in the front or back) but it was more flattering for me and my rectangular shape to leave them off.

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate
chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

This is a size 12 with the adjustments mentioned above. I used this rayonish denim from Joann fabrics that I picked up the same time I got fabric for Ansley's romper. It sewed together fairly easily, especially since I knew I'd want bias tape when I was prepping Ansley's romper so I made extra. I used the bias tape to hem instead of drafting a hem facing and love the weight it adds to the skirt. It was a little easier to hem using the bias tape, even with the extra step of understitching.

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

I also managed to not lose the interfacing strips I had cut for the pockets on my first Fringe dress, which saved myself some prep time. (The practice/first one was sewn with a cotton lawn and it was too sheer for pockets.)

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

chalk and notch fringe dress by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Monday, July 2, 2018

Linville Rompers by Hey June Patterns

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

I finally delivered on the romper Ansley asked me for last summer. She outgrew the original one, which now happily fits Lisbon. I wanted to recreate the pictures but they weren't having it and it wasn't worth a fight since I got decent pictures as is. The summer evening light in our backyard is magical!

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate


I sewed a size ten for Ansley. Her measurements put her between an eight and ten, which isn't surprising because she's an average sized nine year old. She requested a tie back instead of a button and loop or a little tab and snaps. I also added about three and a half inches to the shorts. I can't remember if she specifically asked for them to be longer or just agreed that the pink one was too short (and also too small).

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

I used fabric from joanns and since it took me a whole year to get to it we decided on different fabric. I can't find the exact listing but I think it might have rayon or modal in it? It was kind of fussy when hemming and squaring off for cutting and when making bias tape. I used the lightest heat setting on my iron even though the bolt said to line dry and do not press because the fabric needed to be pressed. It was fine but the gold of the arrows might come off later? It was a risk worth taking.

(love this pic!)

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

Lisbon agreed to pose for me and she agreed to let me try to recreate the hairstyle Ansley had in the original pictures. This is her first full set of pigtails ever(!)- a moment I have been waiting for since I found out she was a girl when I was pregnant with her. I love it so much but it also makes me sad that she looks so much like a little girl. She also wanted to waddle like a penguin. She is still very much in love with penguins.

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

hey june linville rompers by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!

Monday, June 25, 2018

Azur Reversible Swimsuits by Petit a Petit and Family and Titchy Threads

Towards the beginning of our #sewswimsocial on instagram, Celina of Petit a Petit and Family was offering a pattern sale, which you can find out about by following her and/or subscribing to her newsletter. The Azur Reversible swimsuit (a collab between Celina and Laura of Titchy Threads) had been out in the wild for a few years but caught my eye since I was in swimwear mode and I had been saving some custom swim knit from Sweet N Charmed fabrics, just waiting for the right pattern.

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

The Azur Swimsuit is fully reversible or you can use a lining fabric. Rachel of Stitched Together commented that when she uses lining fabric her girls get sand stuck in their suits so she prefers to use regular swim fabric as the lining. It was again fortunate timing for me to use regular swim for these suits. (I did sew a practice one for Ansley with swim lining to check her size). The Azur Swimsuit has several colorblocking and strap options and optional bows. In the previous post I used the solid/non colored block version for Ansley with the yummy polka dot fabric (she is extremely lucky I didn't hoard it all for myself) and the reverse is white swim knit with blue straps, both fabrics from Joann. The Joann's stuff is definitely thinner and more slippery but it is lovely for a lining.

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

I found the construction very interesting and fun. I felt like a magician when I bagged the lining and sewed in the optional elastic! I LOVE the style and the coverage in the seat and the many color block opportunities. The pattern pieces went together beautifully. I did end up sewing some of the straighter seams with my serger because the thin swim liked to slide/bunch even with a stretch needle and walking foot. Or without a walking foot. Or with pins. Or with lots of wonder clips. This isn't a fault of the instructions, I just found it worked better for me, especially the straps. The instructions and illustrations were clear and helpful.

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

Lisbon's suit is a size 6, according to her measurements. I was overly eager and used the wrong width of elastic so it doesn't lay quite as flat for now but when it's stretched slightly (like how it will fit when she grows) it's perfect. I sewed a size 9 for Ansley and the fit is perfect. The main fabrics are from Sweet n Charmed Fabrics and the accent/contrast is from Joanns. The girls had a fun time picking the fabrics and coordinates for each part and we did use the little accent rectangle on the reverse even though I didn't get any pictures of them.

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviatetitchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

I will definitely sew this pattern again since it's unique and fun and great for scraps and personalization.

titchy threads/petit a petit and family azur swimsuit by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by!