Thursday, September 14, 2017

Allium Dolmans by Sew Like My Mom

Lately it seems like the only posts that are published in a semi timely manner are from pattern testing. [I share a lot more of my sewing on instagram (@replicatethendeviate) mostly because it's super fast]. The designers I test for do not require blog posts but when I'm looking into buying a new pattern I really appreciate blog posts and seeing the patterns and their multiple views on various sizes/shapes/styles. I also like to check my "patterns I own" board on pinterest. But I have a decent backlog and want to update my sewing portfolio so it's definitely on the to do list.

The Allium Dolman by Melissa of Sew Like My Mom is the women's version of the Tulipa pattern for girls. Both patterns have many options- short sleeved or long sleeved, gathered front or non gathered front, knit or woven bodices (the yokes and neckband are knit), shirt or tunic or dress length, pockets or no pockets. The instructions are a combination of pictures and text. I love that there's a print guide so you only print the pages you want and you can print in layers.

sew like my mom's allium dolman by replicate then deviate

This is my first tester version. I don't remember there being any changes from the final. (during testing there are occasionally minor adjustments to pattern pieces to improve the fit). This is the dress length with pockets (which I still need practice on with my serger). I used an athletic mesh fabric from joanns. It has decent stretch and recovery and is slightly sturdy, if that makes any sense. It will be perfect for our Florida trip next month.

sew like my mom's allium dolman by replicate then deviate

I love how flattering the curve is!!!

sew like my mom's allium dolman by replicate then deviate

This is a straight L according to my high bust measurement (and the size chart/instructions). There is a little bit of ease in the hips but my hips are a size smaller and I did not grade for this. I also haven't hemmed it yet because I don't have matching thread and I'm still thinking how to make the hem behave. The mesh did not love my stretch needle and I'm out of ball point needles. I do like the length as is.

sew like my mom's allium dolman modified tunic by replicate then deviate

I sized down for my second due to fabric. This purple fabric is from the loungeletics line at Joann and is labelled as a wicking jersey fabric. I think it's like 95% poly 5% spandex. It's quite stretchy and has good recovery. The front is smooth and has a bit of a sheen to it. The back is brushed and soft. Wearing it today it seems pretty breathable. The drape is quite nice. I was kind of irritated when I was sewing it though because it seems to snag quite easily; not from stretching but it would catch on my dryish hands and leave a slight snag. I would be more upset if I hadn't bought it using a 60% off coupon. (and now I don't know what I want to do with the white fabric I have. I already prewashed it so it's for keeps now).

sew like my mom's allium dolman modified tunic by replicate then deviate

I cut and sewed the tunic length (minus the hem) and tried it on. The fabric combo and the length on me looked nightgownish. The fact that I was sewing in my pajamas didn't help the tunic's cause. I let it sit for a day while deciding what to do. I debated curving the hem so it was longer in the back but didn't because of the snaggy fabric. The fabric then dictated that it wanted to be banded. I cut off several inches and slimmed the slight a line of the edges, making the bands just a little smaller (maybe half an inch) than the bottom of my shirt. I basted the band together and basted it to the shirt before serging because the fabric is kind of slippery and was curling in at the ends.

sew like my mom's allium dolman modified tunic by replicate then deviate

Anyway I love it! An added bonus is it makes the middle less clingy(!) and it's super comfy. We will see how long the fabric lasts.

sew like my mom's allium dolman modified tunic by replicate then deviate

(paired with my current favorite hey june sloan leggings in a leather look athletic fabric from Joann. I sound like a broken record. I am not affiliated with Joann but would seriously consider an offer if it ever came my way. Ha).

The Allium and Allium/Tulipa bundle are on sale through Friday. All pictures are by Ansley. She's really helpful! Thanks for reading!