Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Itch to Stitch's Paro Cardi and Liana Stretch Jeans

Hi! Welcome to my stop on the #ITSLoveTour- a blog tour to show our love for Kennis, the stellar designer behind Itch to Stitch, who had the misfortune of returning home to find her home burglarized and her sewing machines, cameras, and computers (and other items) stolen. Thank you to the numerous sponsors and bloggers and companies for their support. And scroll through to enter the awesome giveaways. ;)

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This tour gave me the motivation to pick up the Paro Cardigan pdf pattern. This yummy french terry was generously provided by Ti of Simply by Ti. I love the shaping of the paro (which is achieved through twelve pleats!) and that it's designed to fall below the hips so I can wear it with leggings!

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

The Paro Cardigan comes in sizes 00-20. It has the option to print in layers. The pleats and notches are clearly marked and the pieces fit together beautifully. The drafting and instructions are excellent. I love that the instructions also give several options for finishing and instructions to include a contrast fabric for the waistband and band. There is also an optional button closure that I chose not to do because my machine doesn't love buttonholes.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I sewed a size 10, according to my bust and waist (upper bust 35.5, bust 39, waist 31.8, hips 39). I did not make any size adjustments. I am happy with the fit! I think I want to make my next one with some star wars fabric at the waist!

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This pink french terry is easy to sew with and feels nice to wear! I had sewn up a lane raglan a few weeks ago so I knew I'd love it. It doesn't fray at the raw edges like some french terry I've sewn with. Since it's cotton it presses nicely. I did notice the highest heat on my iron made the color change slightly purple when I was pressing but it went away as soon as I removed the iron and I can't tell where the heat marks were. I used the second hottest heat setting for the remainder of the pressing, which also worked well. I washed and dried this cardi after sewing to remove my fabric markings and this is how it looks straight out of the dryer. With most knits I line dry but I dried this on low and am happy with how it looks.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

For 2017 I made one new year's resolution- to sew a pair of jeans (or pants- leggings and pull on pants excluded). Did you make a new year's resolution? I used to make a bunch and then I would get overwhelmed and not work on any of them after mid February. Then for a few years I didn't make any. This year I picked one that I knew would be challenging but I also knew I'd feel so empowered/excited when I achieved it. This tour and the sewalong that Melissa and Diane hosted on facebook and Kennis' sewalong on her blog were the motivation/support I needed. Thanks to these ladies and the supportive sewing community for their help/tips/support/inspiration! It was also really helpful to have sewn the Sandbridge Skirt this summer so I'd had some experience figuring out tension for topstitching on my machine and installing my first zipped fly.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

The Liana Stretch Jeans come in sizes 00-20. They have a midrise in the back, which I totally appreciate, and traditional five pocket styling (with optional back pocket flaps). There are also three leg styles (skinny, straight, and boot cut) which is really cool to be able to use one pattern for many different looks! This pair is the straight leg version.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I used high stretch denim that I found at my local Joann. Here's the online listing that popped up in my search though obviously the color is way different for some reason. It's a cotton/poly/spandex blend. The reverse is actually black instead of the typical denim and I felt like it shredded black threads when prewashing. Fortunately my serger is still threaded with black thread from Ansley's ranger costume. The only real frustration I had with the fabric is it's only 46 inches wide (instead of 54) so I needed an extra yard to cut one of the legs.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I followed along closely with the Itch to Stitch sew along- especially the fitting days. I picked to sew a size 6 even though my sewing double, Ti, sewed a 4 because my fabric had a little less than 20% stretch. When I did the first fitting I was pleasantly surprised with how well they fit. I am glad I did the full legs instead of shorts because I needed some space for my calves. I ended up scooping out the seat 5/8 inch for my low butt, took a 1/2 inch dart out of the back top yoke (blending to nothing at the bottom of the yoke), and tapered the back legs out 1/2 inch at the knees for my calves. I also shortened the pattern pieces by 1.25 inches based on an estimate from my fitting. After sewing I decided I wanted a little more length so I gave myself an additional 1/4 inch on my pattern pieces for next time. I did it right away so I wouldn't forget.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I still have some wrinkles, which I expect because we need to be able to move in our pants! I'm not sure if it's worth looking at a sway back adjustment in the yoke because most of my sway back is above the normal waistband anyway and when I make sure the waistband is where it belongs the wrinkles disappear. I do have some phantom wrinkles at my hips but these are way less significant than rtw jeans on me.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I used two denim threads for topstitching. They are labeled as jeans thread and are variegated. I wound some thread on a bobbin because I didn't have two spools. And note to myself because I forgot- change the tension to midway between + and neutral for topstitching or the bobbin threads will be a tangly twisty nightmare.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I love the support from the pocket stays! I upcycled the old curtains from our townhouse kitchen, Sound of Music style, for the pockets.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

This fly installation method happens to be the same as my sandbridge skirts and I was elated the zippers went in beautifully and successfully the first time!!! I used the leftover jeans buttons from my sandbridge skirts. I used a metal zipper and for some reason it was significantly easier to shorten than on my first sandbridge skirt. I'm definitely not complaining. I didn't use rivets this time because I had a headache when I was finishing up.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

I chose to substitute 1/4 inch elastic in the waistband for the twill tape because Ti said hers were a little too stiff in the waistband. I wanted something for support but something that would also relax a little through the day because my belly tends to fluctuate.

I sewed the belt loops on even though I don't wear belts. I'm debating removing the side ones because they are a bit bunchy when I sit. I think I might not have sewed them in as flat as I should also.

(top is the original union st tee)

Thanks to my eight year old for the pics. She was a good sport when I asked her to reshoot on Monday since the pics from Sunday were so dark after choir practice.

itch to stitch liana jeans and paro cardi by replicate then deviate

Thanks for stopping by! Please make sure to enter the giveaways and link up your Itch to Stitch lovelies created in October or November 2017.

First, you may enter our giveaway to win one of three prize packs:

Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

$25GC to Simply By Ti

$50 Raspberry Creek Gift Card

$50 Bella Sunshine gift card


Prize Pack #2 includes:

$50 Knit Pop GC

$25 Designer Stitch GC

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

3 patterns of choice from Coffee And Thread


Prize Pack #3 Includes:

$15 Thread & Grain store credit

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

3 patterns from Halla Patterns


A Rafflecopter Giveaway

Your second way to win is to share with us your recent Itch to Stitch creations (made between October and November 2017). Add your creations to our Link Up Party before Nov. 20th for a chance to win one of two prize packs.


LinkUp Prize Pack #1 includes:

5 Itch to Stitch patterns

A $40 value PFRE Sly Fox Fabrics.

$25 Maker Mountain Fabrics GC

$50 Love Notions GC


LinkUp Prize Pack #2 includes:

$25 Stylish Fabric GC & sewing box kit

$25 Chalk and Notch GC

5 patterns from Rad Patterns

Pattern of choice from DG Patterns

 

 





 

Giveaway and Linkup prize winners will be announced on or about November 21st.



Your ITS Love bloggers are

Monday: Sew Sophie Lynn, Merritts Makes, Sewing with Sarah, Sewing with D

Tuesday: Shalini's Blog, Auschicksews, Rebel and Malice, Sewing Vortex

Wednesday: Replicate Then Deviate, mahlicadesigns, Sewing with D, The Petite Sewist, kreamino

Thursday: Sewing Curves, Creative Counselor, Sew Mariefleur, Fairies, Bubbles & Co, Sewing by Ti

Friday: Harper+Lu, MeMade, On Wednesdays We Sew, Heather Handmade, Bellevi, and visit by mooglii on IG